Monster Maze Crochet Cushion Tutorial

monster_maze_cover_III

I made this Monster Maze cushion for my boys.  I used Drops Cotton Light which is perfect for the summer and has worked up with a nice firm texture which is great for a kids project. The aim is for little fingers to be able to trace the maze around the cushion – taking care to avoid the lurking monsters!

We’d love to know what you think! Leave us a comment here.

You Will Need:

  • Drops Cotton Light – Jeans Blue (26) 300g
  • Drops Cotton Light – Green (11) 200g
  • Drops Cotton Light – Yellow (28) 50g
  • 4.5mm & 4mm Hooks
  • 10 Buttons to decorate (more details in how I made these below).
  • A 45 x 45cm Cushion Pad.

The yarn was all purchased from http://www.woolwarehouse.co.uk/

This pattern is written using UK crochet terms.

Tension: Working in rows of double crochet with a 4.5mm hook 5cm = 10 stitches wide by 10 rows high. If your tension is different from this, change your hook size to suit.

The Maze Panel

Maze_Grid_Pattern

Each square in the grid represents one double crochet.

The maze panel is worked in rows of double crochet, using a 4.5mm hook

The panel is going to be 72 stitches wide by 72 rows high. To start, work a chain of 73 stitches long in the Jeans Blue yarn.

Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, work 1 double crochet in each chain.
At the end of the row, work 1 chain and turn.

*1 DC in each of the 72 DC from the previous row, 1ch, turn* work from * to * 3 times so that you have 4 rows in the Jeans Blue.

You may notice that I’m not treating the 1ch as the first double crochet in the row – this is just because I don’t like working this way, I always find it tricky to work into the chain stitch and so I’ve now decided to throw caution to the wind and not bother! I simply do a chain at the end of each row to turn the work and get me into the right place, then work a double crochet into each double crochet from the previous row. I know it’s not how it’s done ‘properly’ but I find it easier, so it’s the method I use 🙂

You now need to start working from the grid using both the Jeans blue and the Green yarn. Each square on the grid represents 1 DC stitch.

How to Change Colour

Changing colour when working in double crochet is very easy – you just need to remember a couple of things. The first thing is that the stitch BEFORE the new colour is important – work your double crochet as normal (hook into stitch, yarn over hook and bring through a loop) but change colour now, so that you do the final yarn over hook and pull through in the new colour.

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Work the first half of the stitch as normal

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This is my last green double crochet before I swap to blue. I’ve inserted the hook into the stitch below and pulled through one loop of the green – giving me two green loops on the hook

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Now rather than looping round the green yarn as I would on a ‘normal’ stitch, to change colours I hook the blue yarn.

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Now you’ll finish the stitch with a blue loop on your hook and you’ll get a neat colour change.

The second thing for this pattern is that I have carried along the yarn colour that I’m not using, forming the double crochet stitches over the top of the yarn colour that isn’t in use. This has the advantage of making both the front and the back of the work very neat, and adding extra weight to the finished panel. To make sure that the work is an even texture, make sure that yarn that you are carrying is kept taut.

To carry the yarn along, when the hook goes into the stitch, the yarn to be carried needs to be laying over the hook.

To carry the yarn along, when the hook goes into the stitch, the yarn to be carried needs to be laying over the hook.

Work the double crochet as usual.

Work the double crochet as usual.

The green double crochet stitches are worked as normal and the blue yarn is carried along ready for when you need it.

The green double crochet stitches are worked as normal and the blue yarn is carried along ready for when you need it.

Using the grid, work across the even number rows from right to left and the odd number rows from left to right.

As you are carrying the yarn colour you’re not using with you, you’ll find that when you reach the end of a row you have the blue yarn that is in use and the green yarn too. Just make 1 chain, turn the work and then continue to work in the blue, encasing the green yarn in the stitches as you work.

Continue to work up the grid, finishing with the last 4 rows in blue – there is no need to carry the green yarn through these last rows as you will not need it again.

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Edging the maze pattern.

To edge the maze pattern in yellow, using a 4mm hook, hold the yellow wool at the back of the panel, insert the hook and pull through a loop, insert the hook again 1 stitch further along and pull through a second loop. Pull the second loop through the first one and continue.

Well done – you’ve finished the difficult part!

The Cushion Back

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Simple stripes for the cushion back.

The cushion back is worked in stripes of double crochet, to save having to sew in lots of ends, carry the colours up the side of the panel – they’ll be hidden when you work the edging round.

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Carrying the yarn neatly up the side of the back panel saves having to sew in lots of ends!

73 Ch, DC into 2nd Chain from hook, work 1 DC into each chain.

1CH, turn work, 72 DC

Change colour to green yarn.

*1CH, turn work, 72 DC* work from *t0* 2 times

Chaing colur to blue yarn.

*1CH, turn work, 72 DC* work from *t0* 2 times

Continue to work rows of stripes until you have 72 rows.

The Edging

The edging is worked in the same way for both the front and back panels.

With the right side of the panel facing you, attach the blue yarn at any point along the side of the panel and work 1 CH.  Along the sides, work 1 DC into each row and at the top and bottom work 1 DC into each DC from the panel. At every corner work 2CH. Slip stitch into initial CH to finish the round.

P1030110

First round of edging along the side of the back panel

Attach green yarn, 1 CH and continue to work 1DC into each DC from the previous round. At the corners work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into the 2CH space. Finish round with a slip stitch into the initial 1 CH

Attach Blue yarn and continue to work 4 more rows of edging in the same way as above – 1DC in each DC from the previous round with 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into each 2 CH corner space. Finish round with a slip stitch into the initial chain of that round and fasten off yarn.

The yellow outline is worked in the same way as on the front panel. Work the yellow following the line that marks the edge of the panel and the start of the border.

Make the border in the same way for both the front and back panel.

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Add the yellow where the panel meets the edging.

Add the Buttons!

I decided that to make my maze cushion more fun, I should add monster buttons to lurk in the dead ends (thanks to Karey for that inspiration!). Being me, I decided to make buttons out of Fimo (polymer clay), but you could buy pre-made buttons (try somewhere like this http://www.beadandbuttoncompany.co.uk/) or just go for regular brightly coloured buttons.

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Fimo monster buttons!

I went for an arrow button for the top left to mark the start, a chequered flag for the finish and little green and blue beasties for along the way. I normally only play with Fimo with my kids, so I’m certainly lacking some skills, but the results are quite cute. From what I’ve read on the web, it’s fine to machine wash fimo buttons – but if you are in any doubt, remove them before washing.

To Finish

To finish off the cushion, sew in all the ends and sew the buttons into place.

With right sides facing out, lay the cushion front onto the back. Attach the yarn and line up the edges, holding the front panel facing you. DC to fasten the two panels together – lining up the stitches and catching the back loop of the stitch from the front panel and the front loop of the corresponding stitch on the back panel.

I decided to attach the front to the back using double crochet and as I’m using a polyester cushion pad if it ever needs to go into the wash I can either just pull back the row of DC that joins the front to the back or be lazy (which has been known in the past) and put the entire thing, cover and pad into the washing machine.

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The row of double crochet makes a nice neat join.

Well done – you’re all finished, make yourself a cup of tea and sit back to enjoy what you’ve created.

We’d love to hear what you think, or if you need any pattern support please do leave a comment here.

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Crochet Edged Coaster Tutorial

We have been working on this pretty crochet edging project for one of our workshops. Crochet edging can be used on anything from coasters (which we will make today) to clothes. We have four different styles of edging for you to choose from.

crochet_edge_coaster

To make 4 coasters you will need:

  • 2.5mm hook
  • 4ply cotton
  • large eye tapestry needle
  • For every coaster you’ll need two squares of fabric 20 x 20cm;
  • A 20 x 20cm square of ‘Heat n’ Bond’ Lite;
  • A tailors awl or other sharp pointy object to puncture holes.

Stitches used (patterns use UK terms):

  • Chain (ch)
  • Double crochet (dc)
  • Treble crochet (tr)
  • Slip Stitch (ss)

A note on tension! If the edging is looking too loose and is not laying flat, try using a smaller hook.

Key for diagrams

Key for diagrams

Coasters

Preparing the Fabric Base

To make the base of the coasters, we’re using a 20 x 20cm sample of upholstery fabric. You can use any type of fabric you like, but firm cottons fabrics are ideal. You’ll also need a thinner backing fabric and a square of ‘Heat n’ Bond’ or similar iron-on adhesive.

Following the instructions on the Heat n’ Bond, fuse the two layers of fabric together. This has the advantage of stopping the coasters from fraying and gives the fabrics a thicker more sturdy feel.

 

Attach the upholstery fabric to the backing fabric using Heat n Bond

Attach the upholstery fabric to the backing fabric using Heat n Bond

Once you’ve fused together the fabric squares, either use scissors or a rotary cutter to neaten the edges and cut the large square into four 10 x 10 cm squares.

 

Use a rotary cutter to cut the fabric into 10cm x 10cm squares - scissors will do just as well!

Use a rotary cutter to cut the fabric into 10cm x 10cm squares – scissors will do just as well

Turn the coaster over and on the back using a heat erasable pen (we use Fixion pens from Pilot) mark lines 1cm from the edge. Then with a ruler, mark along the lines at 1cm intervals.

Next, placing the coaster onto a chopping board or similar (otherwise, trust me, you make a neat set of holes in your table!) and use a tailors awl to make holes at each of your marks. When you’ve made all the holes, carefully either use an iron or a hair drier to erase the pen.

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Using a heat erasable pen and tailors awl to create the sewing holes

Blanket Stitch

The next step is to use the holes you’ve just created to work a round of blanket stitch around the coaster. Take care at the corners to make sure they are neat, following as in the photograph below.

Once you’ve worked all the way around the coaster with blanket stitch it should look like this. Cut off the yarn and tie ends then weave in at the back of the coaster.

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Blanket stitch all the way around your coaster.

 

Round 1 for all designs

Each of the four designs starts with a round of double crochet.

  • Join your yarn to the blanket stitch running along the edge of your work, work 1 ch (which counts as your first double crochet);
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Loop under the blanket stitch and attach the yarn to start crocheting.

  • 3dc in each blanket stitch space along the edges
  • For each corner make 4dc in each side of the corner, allowing extra stitches will help the corners to lay flat.
  • To finish, join with a slip stitch into the initial 1 ch.

Your coaster should then look like this.P1030092

Chain Loop Edging

IMG_1277

Pretty chain loop edging

Round 2

Work Round 1 in double crochet, as detailed above.

  • *Ch 5, skip 2 dc from below, dc in next space* repeat from * to * until reaching the corner. At the corner work 6 ch and skip 3 DC twice. Then continue to work from * to * until the corners, where you work 6 ch and skip 3 DC twice as above.
  • Repeat all the way round, to finish join with a slip stitch into the 1st chain.

 IMG_1286

Pretty flowers because they make me happy!

Shell Edging

As with all the coasters, work round 1 in DC as detailed above.

IMG_1291

Classic shell edging

Round 2

Each shell ‘cluster’ takes up 2 blanket stitch sections, so make sure that you start an odd number of blanket stitch spaces away from a corner.

  • Make 1 ch, and dc in the same space
  • *Skip 2, Make 7 tr in next dc from Round 1, Skip 2, dc in next*
  • Repeat from * to * for the straight edges;

For the corners: Skip 3dc from Round 1, then make 11tr in the next dc, skip 3, dc in next. This will create the fan like shape all the way round the corner.

shell_edging

Working treble crochet stitches to make the shell edging

Granny Edging 

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Simple granny edging is very pretty.

Round 2

As with all the coasters, the first round is worked into the blanket stitches in double crochet, as detailed above.

  • 3ch, this counts as your first treble, make 2 more tr into same space, skip 2 dc
  • *3tr, skip 2 dc*
  • Repeat from *to* until reaching a corner.
  • Corners! – make 3tr in the 4th dc of corner, 2ch, then 3 tr in first dc of next side.

Finish the round with a slip stitch into 3rd of your initial 3 chain.

Round 3

On this round you continue to work 3 treble clusters into the treble spaces you created in round two.

  • 3ch, this counts as your first treble, turn your work so that you now have the back of the coaster facing you and make 2 more tr into tr space from Round 2.
  • 3tr into next tr space – repeat to corner
  • Corners! – make 3 tr into chain space from Round 1, ch 2, then 3 more treble into same chain space.
granny

Granny edging

 Picot Edging

IMG_1289

Picot edging would be perfect for lots of projects.

As with all the coasters, the first round is worked into the blanket stitches in double crochet, as detailed above.

  • 1 Chain (counts as your first DC), 1DC into next 2 DC from round 1. *3Ch, 3DC* repeat from * to * until corner.
  • At corner, work 4DC , 3 CH, 4 DC then revert to working from * to * until next corner.
picot

Work around the coaster creating picots as you go

We hope you have fun with your edging! If you have any questions or need any pattern support please do contact us here.

IMG_1277

Textured Flower Cushion Tutorial

Flower_Cover_With_Text

I’m lucky enough to live near the beautiful gardens at RHS Wisley in Surrey – and at this time of year, even if the flowers in my own garden aren’t up to standard the beautiful blooms at Wisley always cheer me up. I created this cushion inspired by the big pom pom heads of peonies trying to bring a bit of their unstructured shaggy loveliness into my living room. Please do let us know what you think by leaving a comment here.

This Cushion Uses

200g Rowan Creative Focus Worsted in New Fern (SH01265) 200g Rowan Creative Focus Worsted in Deep Rose (SH02755) 5mm and 4mm Crochet Hook 16 inch Cushion Pad Stitch Markers 5 Buttons This pattern uses UK Crochet Terms

Cushion Front & Back

The cushion front is worked as a spiral, working in the back loops to leave the front loops free for you to create the flower petals. It is important to use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of every round – otherwise it’s easy to loose where you are. For the first 31 rounds the front and back are made in the same way. Abbreviations CH – Chain DC – Double Crochet 2DC Inc – 2 Double Crochet increase, so work 2 DC into one DC from the previous round

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Working into the back loops only leaves the front loops available to add the petals later

Using the New Fern yarn and a 5mm hook. 

Magic Circle, 1 Chain

Round 1: 6DC into magic circle;

***Work Only In Back Loops From Now On***

Round 2: 2 DC inc into each DC from Round 1 (12 DC in total);

Round 3: *2 DC inc, 1 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (18 DC in total);

Round 4: 2 DC *2DC inc, 2 DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC inc (24 DC in total);

Round 5: *2DC inc, 3DC* repeat from * to * 6 times (30 DC in total)

Round 6: 3DC *2DC inc, 4DC* repeat from *to* 5 times, 2DC inc, 1DC (36 DC in total)

Round 7: *2DC inc, 5DC* repeat from *to* 6 times (42 DC in total)

Round 8: 4DC *2DC inc, 6DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 2DC (48 DC in total)

Round 9: *2DC inc, 7DC* repeat from *to* 6 times (54 Stitches in total)

Round 10: 5DC *2DC inc, 8DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 3DC (60 DC in total)

Round 11: *2 DC inc, 9 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (66 DC in total);

Round 12: 6DC *2DC inc, 10DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 4DC  (72 DC in total)

Round 13: *2 DC inc, 11 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (78DC in total);

Round 14: 7DC *2DC inc, 12DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 5DC  (84 DC in total)

Round 15: *2 DC inc, 13DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (90 DC in total);

Round 16: 8DC *2DC inc, 14DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 6DC  (96 DC in total)

Round 17: *2 DC inc, 15 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (102 DC in total);

Round 18: 9DC *2DC inc, 16DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 7DC  (108 DC in total)

Round 19: *2 DC inc, 17 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (114 DC in total);

Round 20: 10DC *2DC inc, 18DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 8DC  (120 DC in total)

Round 21: *2 DC inc, 19 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (126 DC in total);

Round 22: 11DC *2DC inc, 20DC* repeat from * to* 5 times, 2DC Inc, 9DC   (132 DC in total)

Round 23: *2 DC inc, 21 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (138 DC in total);

Round 24: 12DC *2DC inc, 22DC* repeat from * to* 5 times,2DC Inc, 10DC  (144 DC in total)

Round 25: *2 DC inc, 23 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (150 DC in total);

Round 26: 13DC *2DC inc, 24DC* repeat from * to* 5 times,2DC Inc, 11DC  (156 DC in total)

Round 27: *2 DC inc, 25 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (162 DC in total);

Round 28: 14DC *2DC inc, 26DC* repeat from * to* 5 times,2DC Inc, 12DC  (168 DC in total)

Round 29: *2 DC inc, 27 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (174 DC in total);

Round 30: 15DC *2DC inc, 28DC* repeat from * to* 5 times,2DC Inc, 13DC  (180 DC in total)

Round 31: *2 DC inc, 29 DC* repeat from * to* 6 times (186DC in total);

To Make The Back Continue as Follows

Round 32, 33, 34 & 35: 1 DC in each DC from previous round (186in total); Now you need to work the band that sits under the buttons. This is worked in rows and the stitches are made into both the front and back loop. Row 36, 37, 38 & 39: 55 DC, 1 Ch, turn work; At the end of row 39 fasten off yarn.

To Make the Front Continue as Follows

Make sure you are still working in back loops only. Round 32 & 33: 1 DC in each DC from previous round (186 in total); Round 34: In this round you’ll be creating the button loops. *6CH (for the button loop) 10 DC* from *to* 4 times, then 6 CH. Finish round with 1 DC in each of the remaining DC from round 33. Round 35: *6DC in CH space, 10 DC* from * to * 4 times. 6DC in chain space. Finish round with 1 DC in each of the remaining DC from Round 34. Cut yarn and fasten off end.

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The Front and Back of the Cushion (before making the button band on the back)

To Decorate the Cushion Front

How to make the petals. The numbers refer to points in the instructions below.

How to make the petals. The numbers refer to points in the instructions below.

Change to the Deep Rose yarn and use a 4mm hook. 1. On the cushion front (the one with the button loops) find the center of your spiral. 2. Attach the Deep Rose yarn and make 6CH 3. 1DC in the next stitch of the spiral and 6 CH. 4. Continue the pattern of 1DC and 6CH until you have made a circle of petals.

Where_To_DC

How to skip a round

5. The front loops that you are working into form a continuous spiral from the middle of the cushion all the way to the edge. However, if you were to work petals into every row of front loops the petals would be so densely packed together that the texture would be lost (trust me, I did this and had to pull it all back!). So, once you’ve made one full circle of petals, you’ll need to ‘skip’ one round. To do this, make the 6CH and instead of making 1DC in the next available front loop, make 1 DC in the next front loop but one round out.  Place a stitch marker here, and each time you reach this point, use this technique to move your round of petals one row out. The petals are so lovely and dense that you will not see this ‘jump’ in the finished cushion. Keep working in this manner until you reach the outer edge of the cushion. You’ll have to stop when you come to the first button loop. Cut the yarn and fasten off the end. IMG_1238

Making Up

Sew in all ends. Place the back and the front together, right sides facing with the button loops lining up with the button band. Starting at one edge of the button band, either sew or use single crochet to attach the front to the back. Sew on the buttons to correspond with the button loops. IMG_1246 Sew in the remaining ends and place the cushion pad inside the cushion. It should be a fairly snug fit so that the cushion has a pleasing full, rounded feeling. Sit back, make yourself a cup of tea and enjoy what you’ve made! Let us know what you think or if you need any help, please don’t hesitate to contact us here. IMG_1272

Wiggly Crochet Cushion Tutorial

Wiggle_Cover_Shot

Wiggly crochet is a technique that has been around for a very long time. Traditionally being used to create pot stands and rugs, as it has a fantastic thick texture, which also makes it perfect for a sumptuous and cosy cushion!

These instructions are for a cushion cover that will measure about 40 x 40 cm.

This cushion uses

  • Drops Karisma Yarn 50g Ball 100% Pure Wool. I used the following colours/quantities
  • 100g Navy (17)
  • 150g Denim Blue (65)
  • 50g Dark Grey Blue (37)
  • 50g Petrol (73)
  • 50g Light Blue Grey (70)
  • 50g Blue Turquiose (60)
  • 50g Grey Purple (64)
  • 4mm crochet hook;
  • 3 Medium buttons approx. 2cm in diameter.
  • 1 40 x 40cm Cushion Pad.
IMG_1028

Lovely, lovely yarn…

This pattern uses UK crochet terms and you will need to know the following stitches:

  • Chain stitch (CH);
  • Treble Crochet (TR);
  • Slip stitch (SS);

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Cushion Front

Wiggly crochet looks very free form and flowing, but looks can be deceptive! It is based on a grid pattern that makes the base of your work, which you then add your wiggles to.

 

 Make Your Grid

  • For this wiggly crochet cushion you will need 27 squares, so crochet 86 chain in Navy (17).
  • 1 TR in the 8th chain from your hook;
  • *2 CH, skip 2 CH on your base chain, TR in next chain*
  • Repeat from * to * along your base chain until you reach the end. Check at this stage that you have created 27 squares;
  • 5 Chain and turn your work;
  • TR in the next TR of the row below, 2 CH, TR in the next TR, continue until the last TR then 2 CH and a TR in the 3rd chain of your 5 turning chain.
  • Keep going until you have a square grid of 27 rows and 27 columns.
  • Don’t worry if the finished grid is much smaller than 40 x 40 cm, the grid will grow as you work into it.
  • IMG_1027

    The grid will look much smaller than the cushion pad – don’t panic, it will grow as you work your wiggles into it.

 

How to Wiggle….

The cushion front is made up of the base grid, with clusters of 3 treble crochet worked into each 2 chain space or treble crochet.

how_to_wiggle2

 

1. Here is the base grid, you will be starting at the dot and working around in the direction of the arrows.

2. Attach the yarn and crochet 3 CH(this counts as your first treble) crochet two more TR in the same space.

3. Turn 90 degrees, crochet 3 TR in this space.

4. Once again turn 90 degrees and crochet 3 TR in this space.

5. To finish this small wiggle, turn 90 degrees for one final time and 3 TR in the space. To finish the wiggle, slip stitch into the 3rd of your initial 3 CH. For larger wiggles, use the same method but turning a 90 degree corner after every cluster of 3 TR make what ever shapes you like!

wiggly crochet grid pattern

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This is how the back of your wiggly will look

 

You can either follow the image here  or if you follow these guidelines you can make up your own. I recommend you go for it and make up your own abstract pattern – it’s lots easier than you might think and it will make the design your own. Just plan ahead, either on paper or in your head and follow the guidelines below and get wiggling!

Wiggly lines for you to follow

Wiggly lines for you to follow

  • Draw out your design on paper first.
  • Always make sure you plan your design so that you are working trebles into the corner squares of your grid.
  • Start filling in the corner of your grid and work your wiggles out from here.
  • Never work in a straight line on the base grid – make sure you turn a 90 degree corner after every cluster of 3TR. If you don’t stick to this rule you’ll find yourself at a wiggly dead end!
  • If you make a big wiggly shape, fill in the middle with other wiggles.
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The base grid will grow and stretch as you work your wiggles into it.

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Cushion Back

The cushion back is worked in stripes of treble crochet in two halves as follows.

  • For the back I have alternated between stripes of Denim Blue (65) and a random selection of all the other colours. This way it uses up all the left over yarn, and as long as you keep the stripes random, if you run out of one colour, no one will ever know!!
  • **I would suggest here that you work in as many of the yarn ends as you go to save you having to sew them in at the end**
  • With the right side of the cushion front facing away from you, take a look at the edge of the wiggly crochet. You’ll see clusters of 3 TR alternating with chain spaces.
  • Using Demin Blue (65) and starting at the corner square, work 3 CH (this counts as your first TR) and 1 TR  placing the stitches between the trebles of wiggly (see picture below). For every chain space work 3 TR, and for every 3 treble cluster of the wiggly crochet work 2 TR placing the stitches in between the TR of the wiggly front. This will give you a total of 67 stitches.

    edge

    Work a treble crochet where the arrows show.

  • Change colour, turn work, 3 CH (this counts as your first treble) and then work 1 TR in each TR from previous row.
  • Work 26 rows.
IMG_1201

Working the back of the cushion onto the front makes a neat join.

For the second half of the back

  • With the right side of the cushion front facing away from you starting at the opposite edge, take a look at the edge of the wiggly crochet. You’ll see clusters of 3 TR alternating with chain spaces.
  • Using Demin Blue (65) and starting at the corner square, work 3 CH (this counts as your first TR) and 1 TR  placing the stitches between the trebles of wiggly (see picture as above). For every chain space work 3 TR, and for every 3 treble cluster of the wiggly crochet, work 2 TR placing the stitches in between the TR of the wiggly front. This will give you a total of 67 stitches.
  • Changing colours with each row, work 22 rows.
  • To make the button band, change to Denim Blue (65) 2 CH (counts as first DC) and work 1 DC in each TR from the previous row.
  • Work 3 more rows of DC;
  • To make the button holes 2CH, (count s as first DC) *14 DC, 3 chain, skip 3 DC from previous row* repeat from * to * 2 more times. 14 DC to finish row.
  • On the next row, 2CH (counts as first DC) work 1 DC in each DC and CH from previous round (67 in total).
  • Work 2 more rows of DC, fasten off yarn.
IMG_1179

Cushion front and the two halves of the back.

Making Up

  • Sew in all the yarn ends.
  • Using Demin Blue (65) and a large eye needle slip stitch the back of the cushion to the front. Make sure that the half of the back with the button band is sewn to over lap the other half of the back to make an envelope opening.
  • Sew on the buttons to correspond with the button holes.
  • Place your cover onto the cushion pad and sit back and admire! Make yourself a nice cup of tea and give yourself a pat on the back!

For any pattern support or clarification, please don’t hesitate to contact us! x We’d love to hear what you think – leave a comment here.

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Spiral Pebble Cushion Tutorial

Inspired by pebbles on the beach, this is the perfect cushion for lazy summer days outside.

 

Spiral_Cushion

This cushion uses:

  • 2 balls of Patons Wool Blend Aran in grey;
  • a small amount of Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace in Cyclamen;
  • a 5mm hook;
  • a 2.5mm hook for the lace weight yarn;
  • 2 stitch markers;
  • 4 buttons;
  • large sewing needle;
  • 18” circular cushion pad;

This pattern uses UK crochet terms and you will need to know the following stitches:

  • chain (CH)
  • double crochet (DC)
  • Double Crochet Increase (2DC inc) = work 2 double crochet into one stitch.
  • working in back loop only.

This cushion is worked in a continuous spiral, so make sure you use a stitch marker on the last stitch of every Row to keep track of where you are!

 

Make cushion front

Row 1
Make a magic circle. (If you’re not familiar with this technique, you can find a great tutorial on how to do it here)
CH 1, then 6 DC into the circle. Place a stitch marker in the first and last DC.

Work six double crochet into the magic circle. On this round I like to use a stitch marker in the first and last double crochet to help me keep track of where I am.

Work six double crochet into the magic circle. On this round I like to use a stitch marker in the first and last double crochet to help me keep track of where I am.

Row 2
From this point onwards, for the rest of the pattern, work ONLY IN THE BACK LOOPS (this will leave the front loops free to add the spiral colour later)
2 DC inc each DC from Row 1 (total 12 stitches). Move stitch marker to last DC.

backloop

Make sure you are only working into the back loop of each stitch.

 

Row 2 working into the back loop of the stitches from row 1.

Row 2 working into the back loop of the stitches from row 1.

Row 3
*2 DC inc in next DC, then 1DC in next DC from Row 2*, repeat from * to * 6 times (18 stitches). Move stitch marker to last DC.

Row 4
*2DC inc in next DC, then 1DC in next 2 stitches from Row 3*, repeat from * to * 6 times (24 stitches). Move stitch marker to last DC.

Row 5
*2DC inc in next DC, then 1DC in next 3 stitches from Row 4*, repeat from * to * 6 times (30 stitches). Move stitch marker to last DC.

Row 6-29
Repeat in same pattern, starting each row of the spiral with a 2DC inc, then one extra DC per row (so that row 6 will be 2 DC inc, 1 DC in next 4 stitches and row 7 will be 2 DC inc, 1 DC in next 5 stitches).

At row 29 you should have 2DC inc, DC in next 31 stitches repeated 6 times and a total of 198 stitches.

You may at this point wish to block your work if it is not laying flat.

Row 30 – 32
1DC in each stitch (198 stitches)

Row 33
Make button holes
*1DC in next 11 stitches, 2CH, skip 2 stitches*, repeat from * to * 4 times. 1DC in each stitch to the end of the Row. (198 stitches)

Row 34
1DC in each stitch (198 stitches). Fasten off yarn.

Make cushion back

Make as front until Row 32

Row 33 – 34
1DC in each stitch (198 stitches). Do not fasten off.

Make button flap
This part of the pattern is worked in rows.

Row 35
Continuing from the end of Row 34, work 66 DC, 1 CH and turn work.

Row 36
1 DC in each of the 66 DC from Row 35. 1 CH and turn work.

Row 37
As Row 36, but fasten off at end of Row.

Front Spiral Pattern

 

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Round and round and round….

Take the front piece of your cushion. Because you have worked all of your rows previously in the back loop only, you’ll see that the front loops are all creating a lovely ridged spiral, which we’re now going to use to work the pattern.

Using the lace weight yarn, work 2 double crochet into each of the front loops that form the spiral.

Using the lace weight yarn, work 2 double crochet into each of the front loops that form the spiral.

Find the first of the front loops in the centre of your spiral and attach your lace weight yarn, using your 2.5mm hook.

Now simply work 2 DC into each of these raised front loops. Continue to work out and round until you are happy with the size of your spiral. We have worked out 30 rows in total.

Assemble the cushion

Place the right sides of the front and back portions together, making sure that you carefully align the button flap and button holes. Pin into place.

Using the Aran yarn and a large needle, sew the two sides together, leaving an opening for the button flap.

Turn your cushion right way out, place your buttons to correspond with the button holes and sew on using the lace weight yarn to create a lovely contrast.

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Add the buttons to finish off the cushion

Sew in all ends, place your cushion pad inside the cover, do up the buttons and admire your handiwork, then make a cup of tea and have a nice little sit down!

If you need any pattern support, just drop us a line and we’ll be happy to help.

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Finished cushion and sunshine – perfect!

Big Bamboo Cushion

Big Bamboo Cushion

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This is a quick, easy cushion cover to make using lovely, soft Big Bamboo and Louisa Harding’s Sari Ribbon.

You will need:

4 Balls Sirdar Big Bamboo
1 Skein Louisa Harding Sari Ribbon
4 Medium Buttons.

(we purchased both from http://www.blacksheepwools.com/ where they are both currently on sale!)

10mm Crochet Hook, the same hook is used for both yarns. You will also need a large sewing needle to finish the project.

This pattern uses UK crochet terms, and you will need to be familiar with the following crochet stitches: chain, double crochet, treble crochet and slip stitch.

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Lovely yarn from Black Sheep Wool

 

Step One: Base Chain

The first step is to decide on the size of cushion cover you would like to make. We’re going to make a cover for a 16 inch cushion, you can of course make a cover for any size of cushion, but if it’s any bigger you may need to purchase more yarn.

Using the Big Bamboo make a chain 68  stitches long and join the chain using a slip stitch – make sure that the chain isn’t twisted. At this point measure the chain around your cushion pad to check that it fits easily and if it is either too big or too small, add or remove chain stitches until it is a snug fit.

Step Two: Treble Crochet Row

3 chain (these will count as your first treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in each chain from the previous round. Slip stitch into the 3rd initial chain to finish the round.

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Finishing the first round of treble crochet with a slip stitch into the initial 3 chain.

Step Three: Double Crochet Row

This round will be worked in the Sari Ribbon. N.B. Do not cut off the Big Bamboo.

Using the Sari Ribbon, 1 Chain (this counts as your first double crochet), 1 double crochet in each treble crochet from the previous round. Finish the round with a slip stitch in the initial 1 chain.

 

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Using Sari Ribbon to start  a round of double crochet

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Finish off the round with a slip stitch into the initial 1 chain.

Step Four:

This round will be worked in Big Bamboo. N.B. Do not cut off the Sari Ribbon.

Switch back to the Big Bamboo by pulling it through the working loop. Both of the yarns will be carried up the inside of the work to minimize the number of ends to sew in at the end of the project! When switching yarns, be sure to make they are not pulled too tight.

Using Big Bamboo, 3 chain (these will count as your first treble crochet). 1 treble crochet in each double crochet from the previous round. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd of the initial chain.

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Working Big Bamboo treble crochet into the Sari Ribbon double crochet.

Step Five:

Continue to repeat steps three and four until the work measures 16 inches (or the size of the cushion pad you have decided to use). Be sure to finish on a row of Big Bamboo.

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Stripes! Lots of lovely stripes…

Step Six:

Place a stitch marker in your working loop to stop any work being pulled back by accident.

Cut off the Sari Ribbon and sew in the ends.

Lay the cushion cover on a flat surface, making sure that the stitch marker holding the working loop is at the top right hand corner.

Working in Big Bamboo and your hook or a large needle, slip stitch closed the bottom of the cushion cover. Sew in the end.

Step Seven:

Using Big Bamboo we’re now going to work the button flap.

Remove the stitch marker which is in the working loop.

1 chain (this counts as your first double crochet), 1 double crochet in each treble from the previous round 33 times.

1 chain (this counts as your first double crochet), turn work and work back across the previous row.  1 double crochet in each double crochet from the previous row 33 times.

Now we’re going to work the button holes.

1 chain (this counts as your first double crochet), 5 double crochet,* 1 chain, miss one double crochet from the previous round, 6 double crochet * repeat 4 times.

1 chain (this counts as your first double crochet), turn work, 1 double crochet in each double crochet from the previous row.

You should now have an envelope shape ready to add the buttons onto.

Step Eight:

Almost finished!

Sew in all the ends.

Lay the cushion cover on a flat surface and stitch buttons onto cover to match up with the button holes created in Step Seven.  If you find that the button flap doesn’t lay flat, use a small amount of cotton thread to stitch it down at the edges, making sure to hide the cotton at the back of your work.

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Choose buttons that blend with your choice of colours

You’re done!

Place the cushion pad inside the cover, do up the buttons, sit back with a cup of tea and admire your brilliant work!

Do let us know how you get on, we’re always happy to provide email support 🙂

Happy Crochet

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This version was made using blue sari ribbon.